Avoid These 6 Practices Which Damage Your Locs

Whether you have recently installed your locs or have had them for years, advice for how to care for them seems vast and conflicting. This is because everyone's hair is different, so a practice may work well for one person and be damaging for someone else. Here are X practices that are almost universally damaging for dreadheads and should be avoided.

Unnecessary or Harsh Products

Some people recommend using baking soda directly on your scalp in place of shampoo. This is not a good idea, as baking soda is a very harsh substance to use regularly. Its high PH strips away all of your natural oils, and can lead to breakage, dryness, and irritation. The use of baking soda on your hair is only recommended every 3-4 months during a deep cleanse.

Castille soap can also be damaging when used incorrectly. While you can technically use castile soap directly on your hair, it is difficult for the soap to spread as intended with dreadlocks. Instead, you can dilute ½ Tbsp. of soap in ½ a cup of water for a thinner consistency.

Wax is unnecessary for dreadlocks, especially those using the crochet method. If your locs are not staying together, it is better to change the maintenance method than fill your hair with waxes or gels. Depending on the product, some waxes can make your hair slippery and slow down the locking process, while others cause mold and mildew growth by holding in moisture and shampoo residue. When in doubt, avoid any type of wax.

No Wash Routine

If you start to notice buildup in your hair, it may be time to change your wash routine. Debris in your hair, often in the form of grey or white fuzz with a greasy feel to it, can be caused by product or organic materials getting caught in your hair. Some options:

• Swap out heavy oils and creamy moisturizers for lighter ones

• Cover your hair when sleeping, swimming, and recreating to avoid picking up organic materials

• Wash once or twice per week using a residue free shampoo, cut out conditioner, and deep cleanse every 3 - 4 months.

If conditioner is an important step in your hair routine when it comes to keeping your hair moisturized, feel free to continue using it. However, it is not recommended to use conditioner with dreadlocks due to its use in knot prevention. A dreadlock is essentially a long mass of small knots, which is why using conditioner can slow down the locking process.

Over Maintenance

While it can be tempting to tighten your locs as often as possible, over-maintenance can lead to damaged hair. This applies to any method you may be using to maintain your locs. New dreadlocks require more maintenance to help them tighten quickly while looking neat, then after a year these sessions can be spread out. For mature dreadlocks:

• Palm roll after washing 1-2 times per week

• Root rub no more than 2 times per month

• Crochet no more than once per month - ideally every two months to allow for new growth

  
  

Excessive Bleaching/ Processing

I love having colorful, eye-catching hair. Unfortunately, bleaching your hair is one of the most damaging things you can do, and many colors require your hair to be bleached first. This excessive damage is because bleach and lightening dyes strip the outer sheath from your individual hair strands - significantly weakening them.

While it's normally recommended to leave the chemicals to the professionals, going to a salon is not always a fix. I myself was forced to cut off my first set of locs after a salon overbleached them and they began to fall apart. I learned how important it is to scrutinize a stylist's portfolio and ask questions. Even stylists who color hair every day likely do not have experience coloring dreadlocks. In that case, you don't want to be the guinea pig for them to figure it out.

It is not hard to dye your own hair, and you will have more control over the chemical use and washing process. If you decide to bleach or dye your dreadlocks at home, here are a few tips:

Before

• Consider temporary dye or hair chalk if you are coloring your hair for an event.

• Consider a natural dye like henna powder if you're just looking to darken your hair a bit. Though be careful not to leave any residue in your locs.

• Consider adding colorful extensions for an ombre look if you haven't started your locs yet, or if they are young enough to add extensions to the tips.

During

• Only bleach or dye the outside of the dreadlock - do not try to penetrate the dreadlock.

• Read directions thoroughly and keep an eye on the timer.

• Wash with extreme thoroughness - you don't want to leave any chemicals in your hair.

• Color your hair in the morning to give it time to air dry, or blow dry it with a heat protectant.

After

• Clean your bathroom or other workspace immediately so it doesn't look like a crime scene.

• Have a designated old t-shirt, pillowcase and towel for dye days - they will end up tie-dyed.

• Consider switching to a shampoo specifically for color-treated hair.

Interlocking / Latch Hooking

While interlocking works fine for some hair, it is not the best maintenance method for most people. This is because it creates large knots in your hair, which can split the root and hinder the locking process. It can also create weak spots, leading to dreadlocks breaking off at the interlocking point. Some stylists may say they are crocheting when they are referring to interlocking, so it is important to look at their porfolio and ensure they are using the method they want. This is a more in-depth blog post about the dangers of interlocking.

Restrictive Bands

Rubber bands can be useful when braiding and styling your locs. However, long-term rubber band use can lead to weak spots, residue, or even the bands getting embedded in your locs. If used, it's best to use snag-free elastic bands and have them in for as little time as possible. Make sure to remove any broken bands from your hair so they don’t get tangled in your locs.

This is also a typical way to combine locs – twist and rubber band them together. Once the locs have combined, make sure to cut the rubber bands out. If you would like wic locs, you can get them crocheted together for a cleaner look.

Beads can also restrict your hair and cause breakage. Try moving them around so you don’t get weak spots in your locs. However, if a bead has been on your loc for long enough, it is probably best to leave it. This is also the case if you are using a bead to cover up a growing loop on the body of your loc.